Cyprus wines include unknown varieties

[memory man]

Cyprus is a haven for wine varieties of all types. Cabernet, Chardonnay, Viognier, Mourvèdre (or Matro) and especially Shiraz have excelled in Cyprus' favourable climate. But it is the Indigenous species, some brought back from the brink of extinction, that are making their mark.

Many Cypriot wineries are now making a strong effort in experimenting with and developing vineyards dedicated solely to native Indigenous varieties. While many maintain 'bread and butter crops' of international grapes they have commitment to their historic wines.

For example at Vouni Panayia, a winery in the southwestern part of Cyprus, dedicates its full energy to the Indigenous species of Cyprus.


One such grape called the Pomara is regarded as a very rare grape variety, with big and compact cluster and big berries resist drought, disease and even pests due to the thickness of its skin. An aromatic grape, it lends itself well to barrel aging and blending giving exotic fruit and watermelon flavours.

The winery owner, Andreas Kyriakides, is very proud of the winery — the first private winery in Cyprus — founded in 1987. Today this winery produces other Indigenous varieties, such as Xynisteri, Spourtiko (white) and Maratheftiko, Yiannoudi (red).

The late great Alexis Zambartes spent most of his life researching the Indigenous grapes of Cyprus and rediscovered some 20 species among which was the Morokanella — a grape that was very prominent prior to the Ottoman occupation in the 16th century, but declined to the heavy taxation imposed by them. The grape is slowly making headway though only three wineries produce it.

The Zambartes winery continues to produce first rate Indigenous wine along with standard varieties. They use the Lefkada grape, for example, to blend very well with other red grapes such as Shiraz (Syrah) and produce first rate wine.

The Fikardos winery has made great inroads to Cypriot Indigenous species. The winery in Paphos was the first to produce the Spourtiko grape wine in Cyprus. This very rare Cypriot white grape variety was much ignored by vine-growers in Cyprus, but is now showing strength.

Spourtiko produces a light wine with citrus, apple and passion fruit flavours.

So it goes, newer wineries such as Ezousa Winery in the Kannaviou area continue the work started by the first wineries.

To support the local grape varieties and wineries, many of the country's restaurants are serving only local wine. That may be a lesson many countries should take.

https://www.durhamregion.com/opinion-st ... varieties/